Funny how things always seem to work out. I woke up Saturday morning and headed to Corona Aircraft Spruce about 1.5 hrs away to pick up the wing foam. Well, he brought out the foam on a cart and I said, "uh oh". That's big! So, I wheeled the cart out to the van and realized the rear bench seat had to go on the roof. After 30 minutes of fanageling, the last piece fit in perfectly. I could not have fit one more piece!	Here is what the foam looks like. 10 big blocks $50.00 each!!!!! ouch and 4 of the smaller blocks. I want to build both wings at the same time so I will have to take the main gear off the plane and turn it sideways against the wall.	The wing jigs will be built on this platform
Getting ready to make the angled cuts.	It's easy to make all the non-airfoil cuts by yourself.
This cut resulted in a good bit of waste. I didn't want the weight of the blocks to cause the bottom 10% to rip away when the hot wire got close, so I put screws in the foam and wired it to the ceiling.	These are the brock parts for ch19. $254.00

February 1, 2004 (Superbowl Sunday)

The first thing I did in preparing to cut the blocks to the proper outside dimensions, was to take two foam blocks and butt the long sides together. If they mated perfect, and were parallel, I went on. If not, I would put my level vertical on one end, attach a straight trim template, and do the same on the other side. Then, make the long cut. Then I repeated that on the block it would mate to. Then, when I mated them together on the table, there would be not gaps at the top or bottom of the blocks. = If you DO end up with some gap, micro fill will probably take care of that. Then, REGARDLESS of how clean the leading or trailing edge foam looked, (from the factory) I trimmed them. First, I cut the leading edge, and then measured back the proper dimension to the trailing edge. Then cut the trailing edge.

HELPFUL HINT: There are two dimensions that will help when cutting the planforms. On page 19-11, the drawings have you measure 37.23 or 51.76 to obtain a parallel line to the first parallel line you draw on the foam with your sharpie pen. Well, after you measure over either of those two amounts, you can double check yourself.
    For the 37.23 blocks, use 36.5  (angled line to angled line)
    For the 51.76 blocks, use 50.75

Lay out your lines, and then use these two numbers to double check your layout lines before cutting. I obtained these by drawing lines using the plans dimensions in a cad program, and then simply asking it that dim. which was not in the plans.

For my straight trim templates, I bought a  3' aluminum ruler from home depot, cut it on the band saw, and drilled the necessary holes in it. Nice and smooth, nice and straight.

I attached the blocks with flat wood mixing sticks with plenty of 5 minute epoxy during the layout/cutting since my work table is up against a wall and I had to keep turning the blocks end for end. After the cuts, I pulled the blocks so the edge was parallel with my workbench and lifted on the block that was overhanging the edge of the bench until the sticks broke loose. I left the sticks attached to the block that they stayed on as they will need to be re-attached later.

The left picture shows the Right Wing  OUTBOARD blocks before any cutting. The right picture shows the blocks after cutting. The reason the cuts are angled is because the wings angle back a few degrees.